LOVINA BEACH

To the west of Singaraja a string of secluded black sand beaches offer a peaceful alternative to the bustling hotel resorts of the south. A long coral ref runs parallel to the shore, and the clear waters, as calm as a lagoon, offer excellent snorkeling, sailing and wind-surfing. At sunset time the beach is the domain of the odd ducks and goats wandering homewards after a days foraging, shepherded by young boys, and with the dusk the lights of the fishing boats from Java appear on the horizon, an ethereal city that vanishes at dawn. The atmosphere is friendly and casual, and the cool sea breezes make the hot, dry climate quite comfortable. Further along the coast in Pura Pulaki, a large temple overrun with monkeys looks out to sea.